knowledge

Level	Dressage	Show-Jumping	Cross-Country	Horsemanship
1, Pony Club (PC) D1, Not competing	• Posting motion is irregular • Unable to control canter speed • Unaware of diagonal or lead	• No jumping experience • Introduced to standing 2-point while at the halt.	• Should not ride outside of an enclosed area	• Less than 10 hours of riding instruction
2, PC D2, Ameoba/Tadpole Eventing	• Can walk, trot and canter on a trained horse • Not yet able to regulate speed • Consistently loses balance and position at trot and canter	• On a familiar horse at the trot, can usually change between posting and a standing 2-point without losing rhythm • Jumps small gymnastic and single fences with a neck-strap, up to 2'	• Can safely walk and trot over mild terrain changes • Occasionally loses position going up and down hills	• Can determine sex of horse and is aware of breed types • Knows basic safety of leading, tying, loading and turning out • Understands basic rules and knows how to keep score at competitions
3, PC D3, Starter Eventing	• Can easily walk, trot and canter simple dressage figures • Understands basic leg and hand aids • Position deteriorates without stirrups	• Can maintain standing 2-point at trot and canter without reins. • Introduced to jumps in sequence at the canter • Still resorts to hands to maintain balance	• Can trot and canter over 2’6” x-c obstacles while maintaining control • Not comfortable at 350 mpm • Occasionally dislodged by effect of terrain	• 100 hours of riding instruction • Able to groom, tack horse correctly and mount and dismount safely • Understands post-exercise care
4, PC C1, Beginner Novice	• Introduced to bending and flexon • Can effectively apply aids for simple transitions • Knows basic geometry of lower-level dressage figures	• Jumps safely without stirrups over low fences • Cantering 8-10 2'6-2'9 fences at an even rhythm is still a challenge • Does not yet recognize distances	• Introduced to simple x-c combinations • Beginning to influence the approach on a familiar horse • Comfortable at 350 mpm	• Not yet able to self-analyze basic mistakes • Able to visually discriminate between good and bad riding • Still suffers from performance anxiety
5, PC C2, Novice	• Executes leg-yielding and shoulder-in on schooled horse under supervision • Capable of teaching turn on the forehand to new horse • Still uses hands to create flexon	• Can occasionally maintain an even rhythm over 3’3” course under supervision • Occasionally recognizes 3 long strides in the final approach • Usually ahead of the motion at takeoff • Surprised by close distances	• Becoming comfortable up and down banks and drops • Understands how to adapt position to suit terrain changes • Still has difficulty maintaining steady rhythm at 450 mpm	• 500 hours of riding instruction • Able to load and unload horse in trailer unassisted • Can drive loaded trailer safely, including backing up truck and trailer • Recognizes good shoeing • Can detect hind-end lameness • Can perform minor first-aid procedures
6, PC C3, Training	• Rides all three working paces well • Able to self-critique competitive performance • Bounces at medium sitting trot • Rides difficult horse adequately • Understands the relationship of inside leg to outside rein	• Consistently lengthens last three strides in the approach • Still ahead of the motion at point of takeoff • 3’6” looks BIG at competitions • Lower-leg position deteriorates under competitive pressure • Can ride well under supervision	• Basically accurate in approach to 45-degree corners, angles and narrows • Often “chases” horse to a long stride over individual fences • Occasionally can ride several fences in rhythm at 520 mpm	• Drops back one skill level on an unfamiliar horse • Able to develop own feeding chart and conditioning schedule • Knows requirements for worming and teeth floating • Safely administers IM and IV injections
7, PC B, Preliminary	• Experimenting with collection and extension under supervision • Consistently produces accurate and balanced transitions • Position not yet consistently independent	• Usually jumps in good style from a balanced canter • Still sees an occasional “Long One” • Comfortable over 4’ individual fences • Rhythm deteriorates under pressure	• When jumping drops, slips and regains reins automatically • Occasionally chases horse to a flat takeoff • Not yet consistently effective in complex combinations • Can ride well at 550 mpm	• 1,000 hours of riding instruction • Rides unfamiliar horses well • Reasonably expects top 10 placing at one- and two-star CIC and CCI competitions • Sophisticated understanding of required veterinary maintenance for competition horses
8, PC A, Intermediate	• Always produces horse on the bit • Rides well in both collection and extension • Usually receives an “8” for position from FEI Judges.	• Consistently presents horse in rhythm and balance at base of the fence • Rarely sees “flat” strides at competitions • Doesn’t often cause knockdowns • Comfortable over 4’3” fences	• Always well placed jumping up or down • Rarely chases to a flat stride • Usually makes the time at upper FEI levels • Comfortable at 600 mpm	• 2,500 hours of riding instruction • Can self-train to upper level placings • Can successfully compete with unfamiliar horses • Unaffected by competitive pressure
9, Advanced	• Has completely independent position • Capable of producing a “10” in FEI competition.	• Changes length of stride in approach without changing speed or balance • Produces clean rounds over 4’3” course in good style • Consistently accurate in approach despite show pressure	• Usually makes the optimum time at four-star level • Can school steeplechasers and timber horses	• Reasonably expects top 10 placing at four-star level
10, Advanced Top World Rider	• Able to secure 60% or better at Prix St. Georges level on suitable horses	• Always recognizes quiet strides to the base of the fence • Has successfully jumped clean rounds in Grand Prix.	• Comfortable, balanced, and rhythmical at any speed over any terrain, under any conditions	• Over 5,000 hours of riding instruction, reasonably expects to win medals at World and Olympic competitions

Topic 1 : Riding levels and associated skills per Jimmy Wofford. (Found in Practical Horsemen) - Good tool to
help you judge when you are ready to move up.

Thought it might be nice to have a page to pass along helpful information to our students, parents and anyone else looking
to learn a little about riding not on a horse. If there is a topic you would like me to cover let me know by sending an email
or posting a message on the messageboard. Sometimes knowledge topics will be on the messageboard as well!
~ Lori

Topic 2 : Ready to Buy Your First Horse?

Have you decided you are ready to own your first horse? I have seen may people who believe that they are ready, the go out thinking they know what they want and purchase
something that is in their price range, then they end up with a horse they are unhappy with or that they cannot afford. Having a greater understanding of what buying a horse
means could save you and your potential purchase many problems down the road.

First, Are you sure you want to have your own horse? If you have only just started riding, make sure you have taken at least 6 months worth of lessons, including basic horse
care lessons. You want to feel comfortable being around and riding your new horse without requiring help from your instructor. If you are not sure you are ready, look into
leasing a horse before purchasing a horse. With a lease option you can decide whether or not owning is something you can afford and want to pursue. If you decide during
your lease that owning is in fact not the best option for you, then you have not spent your money and your time buying something that you now have to try and sell. (Which is
not always easy).

Second, Make sure you know where you are going to keep your horse. Are you going to board it or keep it at home? If you are boarding, do you know a place or do you need
to find a place? Make sure the place has the amenities you are looking for, realize how much the board is and what that pays for. If you decide to keep your horse at home,
know that horses are herd animals, you cannot just keep 1 horse, it must have a friend. This does not mean you need to buy another horse, you can have a goat, a mini horse,
sometimes even a goose will do. For your horse at home you will need to make sure you can get feed, a good supply hay and that your horse has some shelter to get out of
the weather. You will need to have a farrier and vet contact. The farrier can put your horse on a regular schedule of every 6-8 weeks of either shoes or trim. The Vet can help
you with vaccinations, deworming schedules and all medical issues. These are things that a boarding facility will usually handle.

Okay so you KNOW you want to buy a horse and you know where you will keep it. Things to decide:
1. What type of horse do you want....most important temperament. Are you looking for a dead calm horse or something with a bit more spunk. Are you ready for something with
more spunk. You need to think of what will be safe for your riding ability and what will help you progress not hinder your riding advancement. Knowing what temperament you
want can help you pick some other attributes.
2. What discipline riding are you looking to do? You should have an idea of what you plan to do with this horse...IE Dressage, Eventing, Trail riding.
3. The two above questions should help you pick your answer to the third question, what breed or breeds are you looking at? For example, if you want a calm horse for almost
anything, a Quarter Horse is always good to look at. They are known for their low key temperaments. However, if you are looking to event and are ready for a little more horse
you are probably looking for a Thoroughbred or a Thoroughbred cross. In dressage, Warmbloods tend to rule the ring, but can also be very pricey.
4. Now that you know the breed you are looking for you can start a relatively good search. There are numerous websites out there to look on, and they all tend to have the
same search criteria. Once you plug in that you are looking for a Quarter Horse, that does dressage and has a temperament range from 1-3, the next question is PRICE
RANGE. Knowing what you can spend is very very important. Have a high and low range, most peoples low range is of course free. Remember this: In most cases You
Get What You Pay For. That is not to say that you have to spend $20,000 to get a good horse or that if you spend $20,000 you will automatically be getting a good horse, but
if a horse is free, you have to wonder WHY? Once you put in your price range the results will come up.
5. Check out lots of horses, write down the ones you like, what in the description you like about the horse and of course the contact information of the owner. Write down a list
of questions you have for the owner. You want to get the most detail about the horse you can, including behavior, health, training level, show experience. It always helps to
have pictures and a video. Horse deals can be like car deals, find out if their price if firm or not. Most of the time it is not.
6. Here is a good time to consult a knowledgeable horse person, IE your instructor. Show them the options and get their opinion. Have them suggest any other questions
before contacting the owners.
7. Contact the owner. Be honest about what you are looking for, hopefully they will tell you if the horse is not suitable. Make arrangements to try the horse. Be sure you
instructor can come with you.
8. Go try the horse. Watch the horse get groomed, tacked up, ridden, then let your instructor ride the horse or if you are comfortable you ride the horse. Do what you would
want to be able to do with the horse at home. If you know you do not like the horse. Stop, get off, tell the people politely that it is not the horse for you. Do not waste your time
or the owners time. If you do like the horse, my suggestion is tell the owner this but tell them you have other horses to try. This way it gives you time to think about it.
9. Do not get pressured into buying on the spot by someone telling you that there are other customers that might buy it and the only way to ensure the horse is yours is by
giving them money right then. If you are really sure you want the horse give them a deposit, make sure you sign a contract that says if the horse does not pass a pre-purchase
vet exam and you do not buy the horse you will get your deposit back.
10. Get a pre-purchase vet exam done. Depending upon how much you are spending on the horse depends on how much testing you will have done. At a minimum get blood
work done to ensure the horse was not drugged while you tried it, and have them check its legs via a flex test. Make sure the horse has a Negative Coggins test and a Health
Certificate for where it will be traveling. You also want to make sure the horse is up to date on vaccinations for your area of the country.
11. Workout transportation for the horse. You want to make sure all the sales contracts are signed and all papers for the horse are with the horse during transport.

Now it is time to enjoy your new horse. Spend some time with it learning his/her personality. Make a relationship outside of the arena with you horse, so that your relationship
inside the ring is even better! Happy riding.

Topic 3 : Riding the Downward Transition Well

As beginners we are taught that you make the horse slow down by pulling back on the reins and saying whoa. When you are ready to make the switch from basic passenger
rider to effective knowledgeable rider, understanding the mechanism of the horse's downward transition and how to help that mechanism is the key.

First things first. On his/her own, running in the field, a galloping horse will come to a stop by bringing his hind legs underneath his body, rounding his back upward, and
dropping his head and neck downwards. This positioning allows his weight to shift backwards, towards his hind end, which is stronger and therefore better able to stop his
momentum.

Under saddle, most horses will hollow their backs downwards, lift their heads and necks upwards, brace with their front legs, and leave their hind legs out behind them while
slowing down. It is up to the rider to not create this situation through ineffective and restraining aids, but instead understand how the rider’s body works with the horse’s body to
slow down

Now onto the correct position according to Sally Swift (the guru of “Centered Riding”) and many other dressage professionals, the sequence of aids for executing a down
transition rank (1)seat, (2)legs, (3) hands.

1.Seat – Stretch tall with the upper body; stretch long through the thigh (like a tree – the trunk/upper body grows up; the roots/legs grow down). The upper leg becomes
“longer” as the knee reaches straight down. This shift of weight down the fronts of the upper legs allows the hip bones to widen, creating space for the horse’s back to lift up
into.

2.Legs – The lengthening of the upper leg will displace the lower leg back a bit, which is advantageous because it encourages the horse to maintain activity in his hind legs.
Lighten the foot in the stirrup – doing this avoids bracing (tension) and invites the lower leg back and against the horse. Even though the tempo is slowing down, the horse’s
hind legs should not only continue to step up under themselves, but should step under even further. Ankles should remain soft and heels deep. Correct equitation (especially
leg position) positively influences the horse.

3.Hands – Close the hands on the reins to slow the horse. The legs closing around his sides tell him to keep the energy, but the hands closing around the reins tell him not to
go forward. The rider’s legs have created energy coming forward from the hind end, the open seat has allowed the energy through the back, so all the hands must do is not let
the energy out the front – no pulling necessary, instead just squeeze the reins like you are squeezing out a sponge.

As the horse is making the downward transition, the rider softens the aids – the seat follows the motion more, the legs relax against the horse, and the hands soften too.